23rd February 2012, 07:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 23rd February 2012, 07:16 PM by tom wilson.)
The typology of gentlemen's neckwear seems well-documented and quite easy to date. Following the early development outlined above, a profusion of forms in the C18th and early C19th seem to have coalesced into a simplistic form definable principally by the ratio of its dimensions, colour, paterning and, of course, material.* Researchers have drawn some interesting socio-economic interpretations based on technological developments (e.g. cutting on the bias, New York, 1926), and 'transformations' of social change (e.g. the short, 4.5" ties of America in the '50s). Even so, researchers should be wary of the problems of residuality, which are common to most (or all?) dating techniques. As an ethnographic example, I myself have recently taken posession of an assemblage of 1970s ties from my father-in-law in Massacheusetts, which may cause some temporal confusion in records of my passing. I note, however, that some may be sufficiently abraded to reveal the truth to scrupulous researchers.
All this talk of Americans illustrates the fact that neckties also provide exellent data for studying exchange, both of material and ideas, independently and interlinked. This clearly dates back to the C17th, and the Croat chaps (the material), by way of Paris (the idea). I suspect this could be useful material for cross-cultural assessment of class relations too.
*As an aside, the bow tie, which appears to have developed from a common ancestor in the early C19th, is an intreresting form implying rather a different function. I appreciate that post-modernists will emphasise the fact that stylistic choices may be independent of any pragmatic criteria, but I do wonder whether aspects of later C20th life conspired to the demise of this sub-form. Indeed, I have always wondered why despite having some early enthusiasts (VG Childe, for one) the bow tie hasn't become as much a standard article of the fieldworker's wardrobe as the hard hat, flourescent blazer, or a decent pair of Oxfords. As anyone who has attempted to so much as visit a site on a blustery day, the standard form is not ideal; digging in one is a sartorial challenge only to be attempted by the masters of both arts.
All this talk of Americans illustrates the fact that neckties also provide exellent data for studying exchange, both of material and ideas, independently and interlinked. This clearly dates back to the C17th, and the Croat chaps (the material), by way of Paris (the idea). I suspect this could be useful material for cross-cultural assessment of class relations too.
*As an aside, the bow tie, which appears to have developed from a common ancestor in the early C19th, is an intreresting form implying rather a different function. I appreciate that post-modernists will emphasise the fact that stylistic choices may be independent of any pragmatic criteria, but I do wonder whether aspects of later C20th life conspired to the demise of this sub-form. Indeed, I have always wondered why despite having some early enthusiasts (VG Childe, for one) the bow tie hasn't become as much a standard article of the fieldworker's wardrobe as the hard hat, flourescent blazer, or a decent pair of Oxfords. As anyone who has attempted to so much as visit a site on a blustery day, the standard form is not ideal; digging in one is a sartorial challenge only to be attempted by the masters of both arts.