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+--- Thread: Make a Planning Frame (/showthread.php?tid=1328)
Make a Planning Frame - BAJR Host - 14th January 2009
I wanted to... but my wife would not let me!
"Gie's a Job.."
Prof. 'Dolly' Parton
Make a Planning Frame - monty - 14th January 2009
No it's true, reinforcing ok for reinforcing (i.e. 'designated' use)but not for archies to plan with........ madness !!
Make a Planning Frame - Ken Denham - 16th January 2009
It's easy-peasy, just stick one of the 90 degree fittings on the end of the pipe and then stick another length of pipe in the other side. Measure out 1m from the edge of the pipe and cut off with a junior hacksaw. Stick 90 degree fitting on and continue until you have a 1m square. I find it easier to just tie off the 20cm divisions rather than drill the pipe. The only disadvantage is that you can't pull the strings really tight as it will distort the size of the 1m square. Apart from that, it's a quick way to get you out of the **** if you need a planning frame and nowt else is available.
Make a Planning Frame - BAJR Host - 16th January 2009
Cheers for that... I gotcha
"Gie's a Job.."
Prof. 'Dolly' Parton
Make a Planning Frame - kevin wooldridge - 16th January 2009
This is an interesting topic if you like planning frames. But surely for speed and efficency it is preferable if archaeologists can plan from an offset line...which of course is necessary as well as using a planning frame.
I have always felt that planning frames are a bit like the trainer wheels on the back of bikes, you use them until you feel confident enough to freewheel.
And then you buy/rent/steal a total station!!
Make a Planning Frame - Dirty Dave Lincoln - 16th January 2009
It's amazing what archaeologists will debate as a subject-what's next? best pencil sharpeners, knife or a proper pencil sharpener?
I've found that there is a place for both a wooden frame and concrete reinforcers- wooden frame are light weight allowing them to be used for balancing on delicate features (whereas a metal one might be too heavy),but the string is prone to warping (same as the wood)and breaking, and a metal frame is more durable so can be used more accurately (unless your on a site where the idiot in a JCB runs over it) for longer.
Frames are also great on large complicated sections-instead of measuring from your stringline,you put pins along said line and hang the frame up on it and draw like a vertical plan!!
Make a Planning Frame - Ken Denham - 16th January 2009
I like planning frames and I believe this is a crucial debate central to where archaeology is going.
Make a Planning Frame - Ken Denham - 17th January 2009
Quote: have always felt that planning frames are a bit like the trainer wheels on the back of bikes, you use them until you feel confident enough to freewheel.
And then you buy/rent/steal a total station!!
Yeah, ok, and we all live in wonderland!
Make a Planning Frame - BAJR Host - 17th January 2009
Planning frames... offset
Its all down to
a) how good you are
b) what you are doing
Afer 25 years I still use a planning frame. I also do offset. However, for speed and accuracy, you canny beat a planning frame. stick to pins in the corners in the direction you are planning... lift, drop the frame into the next position, move you pins... for some things though, and with confindence, offset works just as well, using the human eye to fill in betwen the measured points. Perhaps a BAJR Guide is in the offing(set) at least at the Planning (frame) stage.
"Gie's a Job.."
Prof. 'Dolly' Parton
Make a Planning Frame - Dirty Dave Lincoln - 17th January 2009
"Planning frames...offset
Its all down to
a)how good you are
b)what you are doing"
I couldn't agree more,i've often employed both methods when drawing up the same plan.
Some of the commonest mistakes i've seen when planning are
1)when laying out a tape between grid pegs not having it in a straight line!causing distorted measurements to be used, and on a large plan this can mean a lot of difference as to where features actually are located.
2)when using the offset method measuring from the tape to the feature,it should always be from feature to tape to get the right angle correct.
3) offsetting should never be more than five metres from the tape,if neccessary put in more grid pegs.
4)most essential for novice planners is to never try to 'muddle through' if your unsure how to proceed, ask for assistance!after all-if a picture paints a thousand words,then a well drawn site plan should be self explaining and also helps the site director to work out a strategy of excavation.